Review: Station 4

When handpicking the chef for his new modern American restaurant Station 4, owner Med Lahlou decided go for a more nuevo route than new. And the results have been spectacular. Famed Venezuelan chef Orlando Amaro—whose Blue Moon has been named one of Miami’s top restaurants—has added his own flair in his signature dishes.
 
The restaurant’s location is a few blocks from the Southwest Waterfront (and across the street from the Metro station of the same name), and as you’d imagine seafood plays a key role in the menu. Amaro’s charred octopus is an excellent choice from sea, with potato confit, smoked paprika aioli and tomato-feta tartar. The combination makes for a succulent and crispy texture to the octopus.

Amaro is more than familiar with this style of cooking. Prior to Station 4, he worked under Chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Girona, Spain—universally recognized as one of the world’s best restaurants. His time in the Old World exposed Amaro to a variety of culinary techniques and approaches, and it also developed his love for European seafood—so much so that he orders some 400 pounds of seafood from Europe by special delivery every week to keep his stock fresh.

Other excellent seafood options at the restaurant are the San Francisco-style cioppino—made with fresh crab, shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari in a saffron-tomato broth and served with a toasted baguette—as well as the sautéed calamari served with lemon-oil tapenade and squid ink vinaigrette.

But the biggest star on the menu was hands down the PB & J Foie Gras, a brioche slathered with marcona almond butter, tomato jelly and topped with Serrano ham. Just looking at that combination may make your mouth water, but one bite into the dish is absolute bliss. Although this item is served as an appetizer, it’s so good that it should be no surprise that some diners ask for a second round. But don’t take my word for it; Amaro said that a customer once told him that his Foie Gras was like “sex on a plate.” 

The Lowdown

Decor: Beautiful. Wood paneling throughout the dining area, giant amber-lit bar, windows that reveal the large outdoor patio, and a mini-fireplace next to the kitchen—which is exposed so that diners can take a peek at how their meals are prepared.

The ownership group—which also runs Tunnicliffs, Ulah Bistro, Stoney's and Bullfeathers—are clearly gunning for the after-work clientele that's been craving a more upscale option in the Southwest corridor.

Location: Station 4 is located inside a D.C. government building and is a few blocks from other Southwest federal buildings—a neighborhood that has had a dearth of happy hour and dining options despite being a rejuvenated and up-and-coming area. The area has seen tremendous growth in recent years with new condos, grocery stores, and the brand new Washington Kastles tennis stadium, as well as the neighboring and recently relocated Arena Stage. Station 4 is the newest and most promising example of the prosperous growth that’s occurring in Southwest.

Drinks: Bar manager Patrick Kelly honed his craft while at the Stoney’s. Among Kelly’s concoctions is his Strawberry Basil Lemonade that’s perfect for the oppressive summer heat of D.C. in August. The lemonade is made with muddled fresh strawberries, basil leaves and Smirnoff Strawberry Vodka mixed and topped off with house made lemonade.

For those in search of a drink on the strong side, there’s the Deauville Cocktail. The Deauville is a take on the 1930’s New Orleans classic, a favorite among brandy aficionados that combines Hennessey, Calvados with Cointreau and fresh lemon for a drink with some serious punch to it.

And in an ode to Chef Amaro's time spent in Spain, there’s the White Sangria. The recipe was created by Amaro himself while he was in Barcelona and blends a fruity mix of cucumber, green apple, and cinnamon accented by the effervescence of a bubbly wine base paired with pear brandy.  Another excellent summer drink, and in the fall clients can expect a drink line-up change using more seasonal ingredients.

The Damage: A bit on the higher-end, as one can expect from an upscale restaurant. Entrees range from $16 to $30 and appetizers go from $10 to the $20 for the aforementioned “sex on a plate” Foie Gras, which is worth every penny.

Dress Code: Located in a hub of government offices, the majority of the clientele come straight from work and stays late. Suits and ties aren’t a must for gents, but it is the norm, and ladies also wore mostly business attire. Weekends will bring in a more relaxed vibe.

Insider Tips: Keeping in mind that many government workers like to go to work early to avoid rush hour, happy hour starts early at 3 p.m. and goes until 6:30 p.m. with red and white house wine going for $5 and $4 for the beer of the month. Bar food menu is half price during happy hour and offers a good chance to sample the excellent dishes at Station 4 at an affordable price.

Bottom Line: Finally, an upscale place for residents and workers in Southwest DC to unwind and with a dish that’s been called “sex on a plate”—how could you go wrong?

Click here for our full gallery of photos from Station 4!